http://www.robotbuilders.net/r2/
Last Updated - 30/5/02
Latest update available at www.robotbuilders.net/r2
Contents
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jump directly to that section
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on the highlighted returns
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Introduction. 3
What
Is This Club About 4
Does
This Group Also Build Other Droids ?. 4
How
the Club Works. 4
Legalities
- Copyright Generalization.
6
What
will It Cost Me. 6
Where
Do I Get a Kit 6
Where Do I Get Parts. 6
Where
Can I Find The Original Parts Used For R2.
7
Couldn't
Someone Buy a Don Post R2-D2 and Make Copies of Parts. 7
Can
I Pay Someone to Build a R2-D2 For Me. 7
How
Do I Start 8
What Skills Do I need. 8
Planning. 9
Building R2. 9
What
Materials Do I Use. 10
What Tools Do I Need. 10
SAFTEY WARNINGS. 10
Which Is The Best Way To Go - Static Vs R/C.. 10
Which Is The Best Way To Go 2
legs or 3 legs.
10
Which Is The Best Way To Go Retractable Middle Leg. 10
Is There a Step by Step Guide. 10
Where
Can I find Reference Material 12
What Are The Standard R2 Parts Names. 12
What Is The Correct R2. 13
Where is a Glossry of Terms Used By The Club. 13
Domes.
14
Dome size vs body size. 14
Where Can I Get a Dome. 14
Dome Sources. 14
How Do I Make a Dome Template. 15
Dome Engraved Panels vs Cutout and Underframed - how why
?.
15
Dome Construction Tips. 15
Dremmel Guide for Domes. 15
How do I Polish/Finish The Dome - Plastic Resin Fibreglass Domes. 15
How do I Polish/Finish The Dome -
Aluminium Domes. 17
Dome Adhesives Members Hints and Tips. 18
Body.
19
Skins.
19
Etching Skins. 20
Where Is The Template For Skins and How Do I Get
a Full Size Version. 20
How Do I make The Parts. 20
HPs. 20
Coin Slots. 20
Main Eye Lenses. 21
Skirt 21
Legs. 21
Hydraulic Hoses. 21
What Arms/Utilities etc. 21
Painting and Preperation. 23
What Colour Blue. 23
What Color White. 23
Aluminium Preperation - Hints and Tips from Members.
23
Painting Hints and Tips from Members. 25
Electrical Motors - What Motors Do I use. 26
Dome Rotation. 26
Rocklers and other bearing stuff
... 26
Leg Motors. 26
Electrical Batteries. 27
What Are The Direct Mains Power Options. 27
What Batteries Do I Need. 27
How Do I Connect Batteries. 27
Electronics. 28
Lights.
28
PSI 28
Spinning colured Gel wheels ?. 28
Electronics - Voice. 29
Remote Control 29
Computerising. 31
What materials glues etc recommended. 33
Plastics. 33
Mechanical Resources. 33
Where can i find other R2 related info. 33
What sort of R2 Toys Models Are There and How
Accurate.
33
OTHER MEMBERS. 33
Which members live where. 33
How do I get email address of members. 33
Who has one near me I can see. 33
OTHER
LINKS. 34
YAHOO STUFF. 35
How to join. 35
How do I upload a file. 35
How do I attach a picture. 35
How do I download an attachment 35
Why don't we have threaded messages. 35
What are Polls and how, why, who, would set one
up. 35
How does chat work - particularly time zones. 35
How Do I Unsubscribe ?. 35
APPENDIX... 36
Who is Don Bies. 36
Using a Dremmel Tips. 36
How to vac form.. 36
Building a polydigital grasper 36
How Aluminum Domes Are Spun. 37
CREATING A R2 Voice Box using a CD Player 37
Painting : Polyethylene. 37
Congratulations on finding the
best source of information on building a full sized R2 unit!!!
Building an R2 unit is not as easy as it may seem and as a group all
striving towards the same goal, we hope you find a place here among
friends!
The R2Builders Club is growing daily with new ideas, members, and resources
of information and parts
This FAQ
is a compilation of a lot of the information, hints, tips and advice
the club has accumulated over the previous years..
Return
The R2 Builders Club is a web based
forum on the Yahoo Group website (see http://groups.yahoo.com/group/r2builders/)
see later in FAQ on using Yahoo Groups
The group welcomes discussion about
building peoples experiences building their own personal astromech droid.
With other member's help, you will learn tips on how to create your
own R2 D2 from parts and items you can purchase almost from around the
world. Unlike other prop-replica forums, The members of the R2Builders
Club strive together to provide each other with proven methods of construction,
the most accurate blueprints available anywhere, and a helpful forum
to discuss issues that does it's very best in helping each individual
with solutions to solving complex problems that may arise.
The only requirement there is to join the club is to have an
interest in building a droid.
All people from all walks of life are welcome, Couples are welcome
in the group and its always nice to see ladies interested in building
druids, we dont segregate the guys from the ladies.
As for cost. There is no membership fees or dues. The only costs
are what you spend on building your droid.
Remember that there are no stupid
questions. We were new at this at some time. If you can't find the answer
after looking for it just ask. There are many helpful and talented builders
here from many walks of life. (Male, female, old, young, etc.)
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I know
this is an r2 builders club but I kinda want to build another r
series droid, like an r4 or maybe one from the novels. any idea where
I can find that info?
Although it is an R2 builders group many members are working
on other R-series droids. Some have built R4s; others are currently
working on R3's. One member did a run of R5 heads, which may get done
again by a different member.
So, YES this is the place for info on all R-series druids
There is also some other spin off clubs and other builders clubs
that specialize in non R-series starwars droids such as:
The C3P0 Builders Club: description/URL
For Mouse Droid description/URL
For Battledroids see http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Battle-Droid/
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The club is as much
a social club as it is a technical forum, feel free o discuss any experiences
you have had building your droid.
If you wish to ask
something or discuss something that is not directly related to building
an R2 just place an OT: (Off Topic) designation in the title of your
post.
For example, if you
wish to discuss the color of C3P0 and you think someone in the group
may be able to help you may title it something like
OT: C3P0 colors?
Please note, that while the club is willing to discuss some topics
not directly related to R2 you should not drift to far from the subject.
Also we do not under any circumstances discuss anything which
may be considered profiteering. We do not sell parts for profit or
sell complete R2s, as this would breach copyright rules. We also do
not discuss Videos VCDs or DVDs, which have been pirated or downloaded
off the net.
We also do not allow SPAM or sales pitches or advertising for
any other products.
Also note the group individuals do not make a habit of answering
questions via private email, as usually if the question is worth asking
it is worth posting to the group. However should a member decide that
the information is not worth posting to the group they may then elect
to continue a private conversation with the person with the question.
Remember
we do NOT sell Complete Kits
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To create replicas of ANYBODY'S intellectual property (including
but not limited to Lucasfilm's) is NOT a violation of any copyright
law on the books today. To display
PICTURES of a REPLICA of somebody's intellectual property and label
it as such with no deception intended is NOT a violation of any
copyright law on the books today. To
create a replica of somebody's intellectual property and then try to
SELL it for a profit (even as little as one cent) IS a violation
of copyright law. To create a replica of somebody's intellectual
property and then try to REPRESENT it as the ORIGINAL (even if it's
not for profit) IS a violation of copyright law.
What are the legalities
about showing your R2 unit in public or hospital visits etc. as far
as LucasFilms is concerned? Are there some rules to follow?
This is not entirely clear. If you are doing it for free, there is probably
not too much to worry about.
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This question has SO many variables. The main one is you and
what kind of handyman you are.
You can spend anything from $100
to $3,000 depending on materials, finishes and electronics
If you make the parts yourself, the cost can be in the low/mid
hundreds, taking a year or two. If you buy most parts, the cost can
be in the thousands and take about a year. If you add motors and R/C,
add on several months and a couple hundred.
You have to factor in how handy you are, how much time you want
to put into this and what you want your R2 to do.
It also depends
if you have a good set of tools to work with, the actual costs of materials
can be quite inexpensive, however if are required to buy tools you do
not have to work it, then that becomes an added cost.
And it will depends on what material
you want your parts made of, plastic aluminum wood
The finish result will be up to you, even a very cheaply built R2 can
be very accurate.
A good
recommendation is to leave the electronics/motors and R/C equipment
purchases till last. This way if your budget changes or your building
designs change you will not be spending money of equipment that you
may not need at the end. These are also the more expensive parts of
any droid.
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You will not find a "R2-D2 in a Box" type kit from this club.
This group is based on communicating with each other on how we built
our own droids. You will find a number of members offer individual parts
but not an entire kit.
Try posting what youre looking for, one or two individual parts at
a time. Those people that supply those parts will be able to contact
you.
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Keep in mind that this group is
about helping each other build there own driods and not about part making.
However,
having said that there are some parts being made by various members
in the club who are working together on supplying the group with very
detailed and accurate parts at
the cost for which it costs them to make them, these members are not
selling these for profit, simply offering a manufacturing service to
fellow members.
The club itself doesn't offer parts, kits or
completed R2-D2s, but will gladly point you to trusted members that
do sell these items. Check out the Parts section. At the official R2
Builders site http://www.robotbuilders.net/r2/select
construction then Compleat R2
Also do be aware, there are some
unscrupulous people out there who could be lapelled profiteers and either
charge too much or have below standard parts.
This group
does not condone profiteering, so please be careful with who you deal
with. The best thing to do would be to check with the club for references
for anyone claiming to sell R2 parts.
Disclaimer: The R2 Builders
Club is not responsible for items sold by members and does not officially
endorse parts, kits or whole R2s sold by members. Any problems with
items sold by members (shirts, R2 parts, coffee mugs) should be addressed
to the seller directly.
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Unlike many other Starwars
props, almost all of the original R2s were completely scratch built
by Norank an engineering firm in the UK.
The only known found parts
are the Holoprojectors and the Feet cables
The holoprojectors are overhead
passenger cabin lights from old Vickers Viscount xxx passenger jets.
The braided cables are bronze
hydraulic cables found in older aircraft. Though they can still be purchased
new see Cables later in the FAQ.
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NO, this would be a direct breach of copyright.
Constructing your own R2 or assembling one from parts is one thing,
but copying of parts without permission is stealing. There are many
people in the club that offer parts and kits that can create a complete
R2 for a fraction of the cost of the licensed replica. See the Parts
section to view items sold by trusted dealers.
Return
With over 1000 members, it couldn't hurt to
ask. But it would be very unlikely, understand that most of them are
currently in the process of building their own R2 units in their free
time. Also as there can be no money made by someone making droids for
other people, it would be unlikely that they would have the time to
do this.
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The first and most important step
of building R2 is RESEARCH and this cannot be stressed enough.
We suggest getting yourself a folder, box, or whatever you choose to
keep all of your research in one place. For easy reference, the best
thing to use is a three-ring binder with several packs of polypropylene
sheet protectors. You can print helpful documentation, posts and pictures
to include in this binder, as it is a stress free and clean way to keep
all of your information at hand. Sheets can also be easily replaced
as you move along in your project.
Just print and save every piece of information you can find.
Some people spend years researching and deciding the best way to approach
their droid.
The best way to start is to check
out the information in the group's Files area, at
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/r2builders/files>
... there's tons of info there to keep you busy.
Use the blueprints that are available
as a guide and just cut loose - no hard and fast rules on colors, and
above all - HAVE FUN
Good luck, ask many questions,
read ALL the posts..
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This really depends on you and
what you wish to achieve. Most of us are learning new skills all the
time simply by trying to build the parts we need.
Best way to learn is to do.
Any cheapie electronics repairs
courses in your area?
Any fibreglassing courses?
There are many tutorials on the
Internet on how to do just about anything.
Just give it a go
Note that many of the members are
already building a second droid based on the learning experiences they
had with their first effort.
At a bare minimum you would need
to be comfortable using tools, glues, and paints.
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The time and cost of building a
R2 unit really depends on a number of things. What kind of Tools you
have. What kind of materials you want to build it out of. How accurate
you want it to
be and what sort of skills you have.
The first step is to decide exactly
how ambitious you really want to be. And what you believe your skills
will allow you to accomplish. Make a list of what you want your droid
to do or be and then determine if you can do it, and can afford it
For example
Do you want a static droid or a
remote control droid?
Do you want the dome to turn? Lights?
Voice?
Do you want remote camera? Extending
middle leg? Retractable arms?
What materials are you comfortable
using? Plastics, wood, aluminum?
When youve determined what you
want to achieve you can then start on the process of gathering parts,
materials and the knowledge to start the project.
Some people build their droid to be just a static display but other
build theirs to drive around. Static ones do not require motors or R/C
equipment therefore will be cheaper to build they also do not have to
be as sturdy and can be made out of cheaper materials.
Remote control (R/C) equipment
and electronics for speed controllers and lights and other special effects
that you might want to put in it, will make the cost go up.
Now for the Time element. That really depends on how much you want to
devote to it at any one time and how much money you have to spend at
any one time for it. Most people that have been working on their droids
have been doing so for about 2 or 3 years before it is finished and
ready to run. It could be done a lot faster, providing you have the
time to devote to it and resources to put into it.
Remember, "The only Stupid
question is the one that is never asked."
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Please
note that it is an unwritten policy of the club not to force one specific
standard upon any of its members. Since this is a project taken upon
yourself, it is up to you to come up with the final decision of how
your R2 unit will look or function.
Your first starting point is usually
the dome, (the dome will
be the most difficult part to find),
as this will determine the size of your body.
Then you will need to decide on
a material for you body, and skins, then start making or sourcing the
rest of the parts.
You can make your own skins, though there are a couple of skin projects
in the works, same goes for legs feet etc.
This FAQ and the many tutorials on
members pages and information in the posts should be more then enough
to allow you to the make your own parts, or there are members currently
offering parts, note that these members are manufacturing these parts
in their own time and with their own money. They then sell the parts
at what it cost them. No one is making money from you.
Any parts on the compleat R2 page
are good value and from honest club members, if the part is not there,
it is worth checking as to how good a quality it is before buying it...all
parts on this page are checked by senior members for accuracy and reliable
service from the supplier.
See main site
<http://www.robotbuilders.net/r2/>
Select construction then compleat R2
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There is not a clear favorite in
R2-building materials, but for beginners droids or low cost droids,
plastics and wood are pretty high up on the list -- mainly because most
people have the tools to work that way.
Aluminum is very attractive, but
those tend to be parts made "co-op" by one builder who's willing
to act as broker for a group of other builders. Though Aluminum Parts
can be expensive due to the machining costs
However, if you're asking about raw material from which you'd be doing
all the part fabrication, aluminum costs are reasonable -- IF you buy
from the right source. Try onlinemetals.com for some great prices.
There are also cheaper resin parts
available, or you can learn to cast resin yourself.
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This of course depends on what
materials you decide to use.
.
What is
a dremel and R-Tool?
More info
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Wear goggles
You won't know the value of it
until you pull a chunk of cut-off
wheel or aluminum out of your eyeglass/face shield.
Watch
your fingers when using a razor.
If you use anything other than Elmer's school glue and cardboard, work
in an area with sufficient ventilation.
Many of the glues and resins used will emit toxic fumes. Aluminum dust
from grinding is bad, too. Don't risk your health on poor
ventilation. Heating plastic for Vac-forming does, too.
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It seems quite a few people are starting
out with more static droids (having lights and turning heads, but not
R/C or roaming around),
Return
2 legged and 3 legged and 3 to 2 transformations which way should
I go and why, and where do I find plans for this?
Return
There
is no specific step-by-step guide as there are so many ways to make
an R2 out of so many materials.
There are several generalize tutorials around like how to Vac
Form. There are also many mini tutorials on how some members built their
own part or parts.
See the appendix for a list of sites featuring tutorials
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Are There Plans
One
of the many hurdles faced by this club were that there are no official
measurements for R2. Lucasfilm has 16 R2s in their possession, and differ
in measurement depending on where they were assembled and what their
function is. The consensus is that R2's diameter is between 18.0 inches
(45.7 cm) and 18.5 inches (47.0 cm) with the height being around 42
to 43 inches (106.7 cm to 109.2 cm). It is suggested that the dome is
the first piece that you purchase/build, with any other measurements
based on that diameter. The Construction section has blueprints free
for download.
There is a standardized set of R2 plans being completed. This
allows parts makers to ensure their parts will fit with other being
made for the group.
See the
files section in to the left of the Yahoo R2 Builders group page. And
select R2-D2
Documentation then select Official R2 Blueprints
Where can I get skins/plans for skins/how do I make skins/which
parts will fit in the skins.
Take the dxf file to Kinko's, Mailboxes Etc., or any business printing
place. They should be able to plot it for you.
Or if you know someone who works in an engineering office, ask him or
her to plot it for you.
If that doesn't work try looking for AutoDesk Voloview Express. It's
free and downloadable (25MB). I'm not sure of the exact address but
I know it's available.
For
DXF and CAD drawings Get Voloview express a free CAD viewer
from
here
http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/section/0,,837637-123112,00.html
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Reference Photos
Search the web for R2
See the Smithsonian shots (story
here) URL
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For mold making and laying out
resin David Lockwood sent me this link, which has very good how
to section http://www.smooth-on.com/
Need more.
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Need to work on this
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There were many different R2s
made throughout the history of the movies, and there are multiple versions
made by different individuals at different times. There are variations
in each one. Some are metal. Some are fiberglass. Each one has its own
quirks of dimension and detail.
And as to paint color, the paint
colors have changed throughout the years from a deep dark blue through
to lighter shades. There is no PERFECT R2.
To complicate things the director
may flip images to fit the composition of a scene, certain
portions of action were "flipped" or mirrored to have the
action flow in the same direction. So in some scenes R2 is backwards
There
are also other changes such as a panel changing from silver to blue
and the details on the legs switching position throughout the different
movies, also swapping parts amongst the stable
of R2s happens ALL the time. There is probably not an R2 that is assembled
as it was originally built.
Other examples are, The ANH bodies
are aluminum, and the ESB bodies are unique with their foam filled walls.
The UK crew for Ep1 made new feet for some druids that are wider than
any of the other feet.
Most members are constructing an amalgam of
all of the R2s (which is what most member's blueprints reflect) with
a few building a movie specific R2. It is suggested that you gather
as much information as you choose (feel free to use this excuse to watch
the movie again) and base your design on what you feel is correct.
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Need an R2 Glossary updated.
Probably in the appendix of the FAQ
Glues,materials,parts,tools
etc etc etc
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Note:
The dome on R2 is not an exact hemisphere, but a semi-ellipsoid shape
- taller than it is wide - giving it a slight egg-shape. Since this
is something that very few people notice outside of the R2 Builders
Club, Many builders are happy to use hemispherical domes.
The official blueprints measurements
of the Domes have the diameter at 18.25
The dome is slightly larger then
the body circumferences. The official club diameter of the body is 18.xxxx
The head or dome will be most likely
to most expensive part. You can use a Plexiglas, or plastic domes that
run around $40.00 and then cut all the openings in it yourself. Or there
is aluminum domes, and steel domes available, though these are much
harder to work with.
Note: most domes that are available
are only 18inches in diameter which is close enough to most people,
but not entirely accurate.
You can also make the domes yourself
using a variety of Techniques
Ross
Cole
Ross will
be having some pre-cut domes made to the group very shortly but you
have to get on the waiting list. Ross Cole is working on the "superdome"
that is going to be as close as you can ever get to the real deal...Inner
and outer domes with all the details laser cut out... These are laser
cut and are to the exact measurements to those of the real R2's. These
will run you about $XXXXX
plus shipping.
Other sources of Domes note all other sources listed are hemispherical
and not as accurate, and in most cases the lower rings will need to
be added to get the final height.
Acrylic
Domes
Those of you, who may be thinking
of the acrylic dome route, try http://www.retailsecurityproducts.com/individualproducts/blackdummydomes.htm
They have 18" domes, which
are fake security camera domes.
D& D domes (Doug Hines)
The used to be used to be Doug
and Don Domes though now only Doug
Doug Hines sells some blank aluminum
domes, but they are only hemispherical and still need to be cut and
grooved. They are around $70US...not perfect, but most everyone at the
Celebration used them...And they looked pretty good...
Dougs email address is B9Builder@hotmail.com
How do I fill the hole in a D&D Dome?
Birdfeeders
Bird feeders with Plexiglas domes
are available from Home Depot or Lowes. The domes are
actually squirrel guards on some of the hanging birdfeeders.
Weber BBQ Domes
Insert story/description
Need uncut
or need to fill holes and bend vents. ?
Hand
Made Domes
There are also many methods available
to hand make domes.
Some members have used clay, Styrofoam
or cardboard to build a mold over which they fibreglassed or resin coated.
List some examples:
You can buy large sheets of foam
insulation from construction supply houses, 4x8 feet and up to 3 inches
thick. You want the pink or blue expanded foam, NOT the white closed-cell
"bead" foam that most people think of when you mention Styrofoam.
The white stuff doesn't carve. Cut out a stack of circles of descending
size and glue them together using Liquid Nails; other glues will, most
likely, either fail to grab the foam or will dissolve it. One 2"
or 3" thick sheet should give you enough foam to stack up one dome
mold.
Yep I took a piece of plywood cut ½" under the outside diameter
of actual dome then I screwed a wood dowel in the center (length of
radius
then with a 20 gauge radius template
made of steel sheet, I started cutting card board about 50 sq.ft. worth
or more then i glued them to the wood dowel
until i got the final shape that
I wanted
then I finished that off with with
plastic wrap (kling wrap)so the resin wouldn't stick
It worked better than I had anticipated
although like all things gets better with experience
late ,Ryan
I was first
thinking of exactly this along time back only after the circles were
stacked, use clay or plaster to smooth out the profile. A cardboard
or metal template of the shape could be used to ensure it's consistent
all the way around.
I later abandoned this idea after realizing the amount of work
involved and my inexperience with fiberglass.
Liquid Nails-Great Idea! Make sure
the glue joint is inside the finished dome=you don't want to sand this
stuff. Why not temporarily attach the foam ring build up to your Rockler
bearing, get it
spinning and use your hand a sandpaper to "lathe" to profile?
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Can anyone tell me if the dome
measurements un the blueprint section (where to cut out the panels on
the dome) are based on a compass measurement from the center (which
would be a straight line) or is it a chord measurement (which would
be a curved line following the curve
of the dome which would place the same measurement closer to the apex
of the dome). I am assuming that these measurements are based on a dome
18.25" in diameter.
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Take a look in the Files/R2-D2 documentation
section. The Do's and Domes of Droid building came in handy. I actually
used both a dremel with over 100 cutoff wheels and a nibbler. I used
the 2-dome method. I cut out all the outer panels with a dremel and
a nibbler to cut the inner lips from my second dome. I then used JB
Weld to glue the inner lips to the outer dome. If you use a
dremel with cutoff wheels, wear goggles. I'm still finding broken pieces
that
came flying off when I was cutting.
Is it common to cut out the panels
on the dome and if so how do you replace the panels? Or do you just
engrave the panels and paint.
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Cutting or etching the circular (horizontal) lines is easy for
the top panels. I drilled a small hole in the DEAD center top of the
dome. I took a long, thin bolt, filed a tip on it, and with a pair of
nuts, mounted it in the hole so the pointy end sticks up. Using the
nuts to adjust the height of the pointy tip, which you push into the
casing of the Dremel tool (making a divot in it). You can then, rotate
the tool around in PERFECT circles. Keep the bolt tip low for inner
circles and raise it up for the outer such as the outer edge of the
pie slice panels. Doing the
lower panels is a bit more difficult, but it can be done using a different
technique. Consisting of hose-clamping an angle iron guide to the tool
and riding that along the dome's bottom edge. The discs I used were
those cheap ones that come in a 35mm film-type container, 36 discs per
container. They were real thin too, about 1mm, although they are sized
in inches, like 3/64ths. Remember, start lightly, then gradually cut
deeper and deeper. The first light pass is a way to make a perfect start,
and then the next passes tend to follow the first. You still need a
STEADY hand though
To get fiberglass, resin or acrylic
type domes looking good, the head can be scratched carefully with sandpaper
to simulate the spinning marks, then primed and base coated with silver
paint (any color will do).
A material
called Rub N' Buff a waxed based polish (the color is silver leaf) can
then be rubbed over and buffed in, giving it that aluminum shine. Once
you've polished it and let sit, the finish becomes pretty robust. A
lot of handling will ultimately dull and mark the surface, but that
happens with real aluminum anyway. After some time, simply reapply the
rub n' buff.
Don't clear coat the rub n' buff, as the wax base would cause havoc
with the clear coat.
Source in U.S.A.: check out a hobby supplier called Micro Mark or any
hobby shop.
<http://shop.store.yahoo.com/fimo/rubmetfin.html>
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There are two different views on this. Many members prefer to
leave the spinning marks the manufacturing process produces on the dome.
Indeed most real R2s have these marks, although depending on the dome
and depth of the marks some might lightly sand them down a little.
Note: You will have to sand with the marks or you will get
an undesirable crosshatching. The easiest way would be to place the
dome on a lazy susan, which allows you to spin the dome and sand with
the marks.
The other method is too remove the spin lines all together
Start by wet-sanding the dome with wet-or-dry sandpaper, starting
with 220-grit, then progressing to 320, and then to 400-grit. The courser
sandpaper reduces / removes the spin-grooves, but does leave visible
scratches, but these scratches will be diminished with the finer sandpaper.
After the 400-grit, use fine a Scotchbrite pad, with water, which reduced
the fine scratches even more. Scotchbrite gives a sort of matte finish
to the dome.
After the Scotchbrite, dry-buff the dome with medium, fine, and
then super-fine steel wool. For all of this, sand/buff using circular
motions.
To achieve even higher sheens the dome can then be polished and
buffed using standard polishing and buffing methods.
You can even combine methods to have a semi polished dome, but
leaving some spin lines visible.
The technique you use simply depends on the look you want for
your dome. Some people want to leave the spinning grooves visible. Others
want a smooth, matte-surface. And still others want a slightly more
polished effect.
NOTE: You will want to practice the method you chose on some
scrap aluminum to ensure you will get the finish you desire.
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Dome: Aluminum Adhesives I used silicone adhesive/sealant,
and also Liquid Nails on my D&D dome. Both are somewhat flexible
(so they'll withstand any flexure in the metal), and form tough bonds.
Make sure the dome surfaces are clean, and it wouldn't hurt to roughen
them slightly in the areas you'll be adhering. Richard M
Dome: Aluminum Adhesives I used 'Araldite Super Steel Epoxy
Weld' which is basically an epoxy resin based two part adhesive for
metal. It seems to stick fine to aluminum but the
surface MUST be cleaned and then keyed quite rough. It seems to hold
fine - I've had lipping fixed into the dome this way for about 2 months
now and it seems fine (but rather messy inside!) Simon C
Dome: Aluminum Adhesives Quick Grab is not exactly crazy
glue, but it is a similar idea. They've got a website at, www.quickgrab.com
<http://www.quickgrab.com>. Basically, it retains a very slight
spongy texture (not that soft, just not super stiff like crazy glue).
This allows the glue to absorb stress and shock, allowing to hold its
grip. I've used it on everything! I even made my Fett boots with it!
I took a pair of slip on shoes, then sewed together on outer pattern
that I simply glued around the lower portion of the shoe where the sole
begins, leaving a Velcro closure in back. The stuff will never come
loose unless I rip it apart.
Toby Markham
Dome: Aluminum Adhesives If you scuff the gluing surface,
the J B Weld is what I use. In fact, I swear by it. Craig S
Dome: Aluminum Adhesives this is a perfect place to advertise
one of my favorite links: <http://www.thistothat.com/>
Gary S
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The first thing you need to figure
out, is what materials you want to use and that youre comfortable working
with. The bodies have been made out of everything from Sonotubes (the
tubes that they pour concrete in), PVC sewer pipe, Wood tubes, Plexiglas,
Fiberglass, Foamcore and aluminum.
Some of these require internal
bracing, while others don't, so that is also a consideration because
it means additional work and time and money for materials.
The various methods and materials include:
- Simple
Sonotube (heavy, spiral-wound cardboard used in forming concrete
pillars) with sheet polystyrene or ABS glued onto the outside
- Tapease
wooden cylinders. This a product
- Frames
made from Aluminum tubing, plywood or acrylic or a combination of
materials. This methods includes a layer or layers of sheet material
around the outside -- typically either aluminum or plastic sheet.
Each route has advantages and disadvantages. If you want your R2 to move around with motors, you'll want to make
sure that it has a good, solid structure. If you're only building a
static R2, heavy-duty structure is much less important. Weight is another
consideration. PVC pipe and fiberglass tend to be a bit heavy.
Keep in
mind, that if you are running your R2 by radio remote control, you may
want to consider how your RC receiver unit will effectively pick up
signals from the transmitter. Housing the receiver inside a metal body
will demand more than just a haphazard strategy to ensure reliable signal
pickup. In other words, a metal body/head could inhibit reception if
you just mount the receiver and antenna totally inside.
The body should be xxxxxx when completed with skins on. The thickness of your skins or
the methods of skinning you use will determine the size of the body
frame you want. Though, it will also be determined a great deal by the
size of the dome. If you have an undersize or oversize dome you may
need to adjust the body diameter accordingly.
If however, you select premade forms such as the Tapease product,
then you may need to adjust skin thickness to suit or build up additional
layers under the skin to achieve the right diameter.
The Tapease product seems to be
the recommended way to go, however note that they can vary in size,
and thickness so verify the details before purchasing.
They are generally 18 inches outside
diameter and very light and strong, you may need to add additional layers
of styrene, to thicken it to your desire width with skins on.
Thickness is 5/16 with a decent
hardness to the wood.
In comparison with a Sonotube:
The wooden tube is much lighter, and has the same strength and rigidity
as the cardboard tube. Additionally, it will not fray at the edges like
Sonotubes seem to do.
Cost: around $66usd plus $12usd
shipping.
There is
another online company that does sell the same product with a thicker
wall, plus they carry end caps that fit the R-Tubes. (I done have the
URL handy :-(
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Panels: Hinges
SOSS Invisible hinges <http://www.hinge.com/> provide a very cleverly
designed hinge ideal for Batteries: Gel Cells Gel cells are
a lead acid battery, usually of the deep cycle type. With the electrolyte
in a gelled form so you can position the battery at any angle or even
inverted with out the electrolyte running out. Michael T
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No
matter what you use for the base of the body, you have several choices
for the actual skin or detailed part of the body. Styrene, Fiberglass,
Plexiglas or Aluminum.
Most people are using Styrene,
because it is cheap and easy to work with,
To make styrene skins, you will
have 4 pieces. They will be an Inner front, Inner Back, Outer Front
and Outer Back. All 4 of these should be made from .040 Styrene. That
is the official measurement, but a number of people have used the .060
styrene as well.
Be sure to check the files section
and then the blueprints section to find the skins drawings. A new set
of official skin drawings are being worked on and should be ready soon.
It would be best wait till they come out before starting to cut and
scribe your skins.
You can also get a section of Styrene
sheet plastic from almost any plastics dealer for about 10-15 dollars
for an 8x5 foot piece.
There
is a member that is working on the molds to make the skins or outer
part in fiberglass. And there are also others that are working to have
the skins laser cut out of aluminum. Both of these are much more expensive.
Return
This
will depend on what your skins are made of. Hobby knives work great
on ABS, anything thicker then you might consider a dremel with a cut
off disk. These cut through anything.
There's this Dremel bit that looks like a tiny masonry nail with
ribs down the sides. I used this to etch the lines in my PVC body. For
a Dremel guide I used a steel ruler with the cork backing and added
old inner tube rubber to the cork. That gave me more of a non-slip surface
as well as raising the ruler edge away from the plastic so the smooth
shank of the bit rode along the ruler and the cutting edge was on the
plastic. Holding the ruler with one hand and using the other hand to
guide the Dremel along the ruler, I had to keep aware of the pre-marked
line, and keeping the bit pressed along the ruler so it wouldn't skewer
off. Being that my PVC body is over 1/2" thick, I had no worry
about going too deep. I'm sure you'll have to find a way to solve that.
If a rig threaded on the Dremel could keep depth at a constant. Also
there are these bits that look like tiny de-burring spheres, but I've
never played with those. Good
luck... Craig S
You could also try engraving your
lines with the Dremel tool with Router attachment and 3/32" dia.
milling bit. That's what I used. The lines come out 3/32" wide.
The depth is controlled by the router attachment. The only thing to
watch is to play with both the rpm's and how fast you move the tool
to leave a decent finish in the bottom of the groove. I had to run a
file in the grooves to clean it up.
Dunno
Most
of the detail parts like the vents, and holoprojectors, eyes and legs
details are made either in resin or aluminium by members of the group.
The
prices are a little cheaper for the resin parts over the aluminium ones,
but most of the current resin offerings are not to the official specs
and do require some work to make them look good.
There
are drawings for nearly all part in the files sections, you can make
the parts yourself, or purchase the parts off a supplier (if there is
one for that particular part).
The
Holoprojectors or HPs were originally made form salvaged overhead lights
from an aircraft passenger cabin.
Etc
etc
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The coin slots down the side of
R2s chest were possibly a coin slot off a British telephone, however
no one has been able to confirm this.
The same part is also found on
the front of Darth Vaders chest, which suggests it, is a part that
can be found and was not manufactured specifically for StarWars.
As this part is found on Darth
Vader you can often source these from Prop and costumes makers who do
Darth Vader costumes.
For example try Vader makers - Galaxy Tradings have Billet aluminum coin slots. However they
are a little bit too big, but metal.
Also some of the members will also
soon be supplying these parts or hey can also be handmade using a variety
of materials methods.
Note on Some R2s these are painted
blue except for the face, on others they are all aluminum.
As such they dont necessarily
need to be made from aluminum to look good if they are to be painted.
Just an
FYI for those of you looking to make your own coin slots.
I used a section of 1/2" square Balsa strip. And cut it to the
correct length using my scroll saw at a 30 degree angle.
You can then easily carve the slot into the balsa. I then used a
bench sander to sand them down to size.
After this, I took a mold of it, and cast it with a 2 part quick
cast polyester plastic that sets in 8 minutes.
After making 6 of these I only have to sand them and clean them up a
bit, will post pictures soon.
You can probably make all of them out of Balsa, and spray them with
a coat of clear coat to HARDEN them as well. But I prefer casting
them in plastic, its easy to work with.
Wes
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I've
had a number requests for my dxf file to be dimensioned (for those who
don't have access to a plotter) So I've added some dimensions so it
can be redrawn by hand. Please note I didn't spend a lot of time doing
this, I just threw up a few key dimensions. Note that I only dimensioned
one side as it is symmetrical. If I missed any let me know.
Here's how I did mine:
-plot out the dxf file 1:1.
-Use the template to transfer the shape to 0.06" styrene.
-cut out shape and bend and glue into shape.
- cut out 2 strips to fill ends
- use hollow plastic tube 1/4" x 3/8" (found at hobby store)
to make
ribs
- glue ribs in place
- use "Squadron" brand (or similiar) model putty on all seams
and gaps
- sand smooth
-mount to bottom
-prime/paint
- cut out hole for third leg if req'd
Hope this helps. I'm pretty pleased with mine and was not too difficult.
Cheap too!
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Regis,
I'm using 1 3/4" x 4" Al tube for my legs. I believe the official
dimensions are pretty close to 1 3/4" x 4 3/8". If you can
find it the 1 3/4" tube
may work out better. I cut mine 14" from the center
of the shoulder to the bottom of the blue strut housing (ankle) The total length is 16" (2" higher than
center of shoulder). I'm not 100% on
if the length is accurate or not. I think it's pretty close. I
haven't actually put the legs together yet, I only have material cut
out. Double check the dwgs to see.
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The real hoses are braided bronze hydraulic hoses. The Outside
Diameter is 1/2". They terminate in the foot and "battery
pack" in a machined fitting.
It is possible to use the stainless steel variety and painted
it to match the existing ones. Check out McMasters and Carr ( their
website at www.mcmaster.com). Under braided metal hose, they
have some bronze covered variety.
They are tricky to work with and difficult to slice them to specific
lengths as they like to unravel when cut.
They can be filled with thick armature (aluminum) wire, to give
it it's shape and hold it in place better
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verbose listing of sub-pages available
from this map image:
TopHatch <tophat.htm> Periscope
Hatch <periscope.htm> Pneumatic
Cargo Hold <spit.htm> External
Scanner Unit <scanner.htm>
Small Holographic Eyes <holoeye.htm>
Radar Eye <eye.htm>
Logic Readouts <logic.htm>
Fire Extinguisher <exting.htm> Head Mounted Claw <claw.htm> Data Slot <slot.htm>
Blue Arms <bluarms.htm>
Charge Hatch <charge.htm>
Six Small Slots <6box.htm>
Cutting Disc Hatch <disc.htm>
Front Right Corner <f-r-hatch.htm>
Front Left Corner <f-l-hatch.htm>
Rear Right Corner <b-r-hatch.htm>
Rear Left Corner <b-l-hatch.htm> Loudspeakers
<grill.htm> The Back <back.htm> Leg <leg.htm> Foot <foot.htm> Small Grill <stable.htm> Polarity Sink <sink.htm> Plug <plug.htm> Heat Outlet <btu.htm> Peripheral Interface <periphery.htm>
<http://www.synicon.com.au/sw/r2d2/r2d2.htm> Artoo Deetoo : A highly detailed R2-D2 reference site arms and stuff
Return
R2's blue has changed slightly depending on
which version is used in front of the cameras. As of Episode 2, all
of the R2s have been uniformly painted a single colour of blue. While
the actual colour combination has been kept a secret, it is known that
a purple metallic base was used followed by a layer of transparent blue.
The most common answer among members is to choose
a colour that you feel best suits your eye.
You know,
if I were to paint an R2--and this is just hypothetical, mind you--I
would order a brand of paint called Shimrin Kolors from House of Kolor,
located at 2521 27th Avenue South, Minneapolis, MN 55406 (800 328 5139).
I think I might order Pavo Purple, Zenith Gold
and Orion Silver as basecoats, mixing them with a ratio of 50% purple,
25% Gold and 25% silver. I then might coat it with Kandy Oriental Blue,
and probably wouldn't put a clear coat on it, though
it would add some more depth. I'd guess that a quart of the basecoats
each cost about $26.55 and the top coat about $31.49 per quart. Of course,
I would have to buy a quart of catalyst at $35.40 and a quart or two
of reducer at about $9.80 per quart. I bet if I did all that, I'd have
a color that's pretty close to the real color.
For those of you struggling over
the blue, remember we did the same thing. The blue photographs so totally
different in different light that it is hard to nail down. We went with
the slightly lighter for Ep2 because George felt that it wouldn't look
black in low light situations, something we were in a fair amount. However,
it absolutely popped in the desert sun. Because the basecoat is metallic,
it usually looks darker when looking straight at it and lighter at the
edge. My advice is to use whatever looks good, but if you want something
close to the "real" one, you'll need the 2-stage candy coat
process, though not necessarily the one I hypothetically discussed.
You want a paint sample? Find a Pepsi can...that's what the original
(New Hope) droids looked like.
Painting: Finishes
On the topic of paint finishes, the original
WAS done with a candy apple finish. That is to say there was a metallic
undercoat with a blue tinted clear finish. (Very popular with show cars
in the 70's!). The best you will do is a mixture of 50% metallic purple,
25% metallic gold & 25% metallic silver as a base, with a transparent
blue top coat. Experimentation says this works best. Too much gold gives
a green hue, too much silver isn't right and just the purple gives a
purple hue, which you don't want. The finish is a deep, rich blue that
works well when photographed. Dave B
For small quantities
of House of Kolor candies, etc. try Black Gold (<http://www.blackgoldweb.com/)>,
a Texas company that offers 4 oz. bottles for airbrushing. Their latest
ad in Scale Auto says they will be offering 6 oz. spray cans soon as
well.
The site lists the Pavo Purple, Zenith Gold and Orion Silver but there
are two kinds. Does it matter which Shimrin Metallic to order? Glamour
Metallic or Fine Metallic?
Fine Metallic
Insert Garys
method here Gary Weaver's R2 had the closest color of blue to the
original...The only real difference was Gary's was not glossy enough...The
original had a very "deep" looking gloss to it that I didn't
see on anyone
else's droid...
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Well, if
I were to paint R2--and mind you, it's only hypothetical--I would use
paint code LS015K from Dupont in this country...but only hypothetically
speaking. Of course, it should have a bit of sheen to it, so a clear
coat helps. But the most important step would be to dirty it down--even
when clean, R2 has some "dirt under the fingernails". A water
based/acrylic paint, such as burnt sienna or raw umber brushed on then
wiped off helps give him his "lived in"
look. Don Bies
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Aluminum doesn't normally take
paint very well without special surface treatment, called etching, A
Recommended product is a liquid chemical product called Prep & Prime,
and it does a nice job of etching aluminum. Some of the other members
have found some other ways to etch aluminum, including use of a special
self-etching primer that's supposedly available at auto paint stores.
If you don't use some method to etch the aluminum, the paint won't stick
as well. Some members have painted aluminum parts without etching (opting
for sanding the surface, instead), but chemical surface etching is the
only method recommended by the paint industry for preparing aluminum
for painting.
Preparation
Well since you asked. I would scuff the alum.
With either a 600-grit paper or a GRAY 3M pad. This will let the primer
get a good "bite" on the alum. Then I would run a soft cloth
with Klean easy (product name) over it, let the klean easy dissipate,
then run a tack cloth over it. Always remember not to touch the prepped
surface because the oil in your hands will make fish eyes in the paint/primer.
Most of the self-etching primers are non-sanding so all you have to
do is wait a half hour (30min.) and paint your top color on. Again remember
not to touch the primer before painting. All of this can be used on
the plastic skins so many of us are using but you would only use the
GRAY scuff pads NOT the 600 paper.
Another recommended product is called Bond-Aid found at Walmarts...look
in the section with Auto paints and look around that area.
Another source for self-etching primer. It can be found at the
Eastwood Company. The URL is www.eastwoodcompany.com <http://www.eastwoodcompany.com>
The 16 oz. aerosol can is #16014Z, and is $14.99, or $13.99 each for
2 or more cans. It's also sold in 1 quart cans (non-aerosol) for $19.99,
or $18.50 each for 2 or more.
Preparation - Jasco Prep & Prime Well, I think
I've finally found a product to make paint stick to aluminum (after
searching in vain for self-etching primer in small quantities). While wandering through our local Lowes, I stumbled upon a liquid
chemical product called Prep & Primer, made by Jasco Chemical. By
merely brushing the chemical on (or dipping the part in) for 30 minutes,
then thoroughly rinsing it off, the aluminum is etched on the surface,
giving it "tooth" with which to grab any paint that's applied.
My test indicates that it seems to work well. Ordinarily in the past,
spray primer can be easily scraped off aluminum with a fingernail, even
after sanding the surface. But the primer clung tenaciously to my test
piece of aluminum after it was treated with Prep & Primer. The stuff
contains phosphoric acid and dichromates, which is one of the pre-paint
treatments recommended by authoritative web sites dealing with the subject
of prepping bare aluminum for painting. I believe I paid about $6 US
for a 1-quart bottle. The Jasco web site is: http://www.jasco-help.com/prods.htm
Here is the write-up on Prep & Primer: Converts rust into a black
paintable surface. Prepares old/new metal, rusted or unrusted steel, aluminum or
galvanized prior to painting for interior or exterior use. Treats up
to 600 sq.ft. per gallon. Non-flammable and water clean-up Brush, roll, spray or wipe-on application Jasco also has a product called Metal Etch, which will also treat
aluminum for painting: Removes rust, oil & grease Cleans & prepares for painting all metals: iron, steel, aluminum,
zinc Excellent
for galvanized surfaces Eliminates
paint peeling Wipe-on,
wash-off & paint Concentrated,
may be reduced as much as 3 parts water / one gallon Prepares metals for welding or soldering I thought some of you might be interested.
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Painting Hints and Tips from Members
Painting: Ageing
Instead of airbrushing the areas that you want
to accentuate, i.e. panel lines, go to a hobby store and buy some weathering
chalk. Take the chalk home, use a small brush to get some chalk on the
brush and brush it on your R2 in the panel lines areas and voila! This
stuff works great. I have used it on my SW models to bring out the details
of the panels and to give them an aged look and I am very happy with
the results. The weathering chalk comes in a variety of colors for any
type of aging and weathering. After the desired finish is complete,
spray on a clearcoat to protect the chalk. You should give it a try,
it's cheap, easy and looks very good.
Brett L
Painting : Ageing
There are several ways to age something, but
it depends on how permanent you'd like it. Typically, water base paint
thinned way down and spritzed on with a spray bottle will do the job
nicely, but tends to be difficult to remove. That technique works really
well even if you want to take down a brand new paint job, to take the
edge off of the ultra-clean look. Another techniques is to use theatrical
hair colorant--it's like hairspray with color in it, available from
theatre supply stores. It cleans off with rubbing alchol, but may disturb
the paint underneath. Another technique is to use fuller's earth (available
from theatre supply house also) and mix it with water and make a mud,
though this will not be very permanent and tend to rub off. The EPI
UK crew used fuller's earth mixed with beeswax thinned with kerosene...very
smelly, but made a great paste and washed off easily...as long as it
wasn't left on too long. With
any of these techniques, apply the mixture, than brush it around with
either a brush or a rag, wiping off the excess. Never use a thinner
based paint, as it will eat into your basecoat. Another consideration
is the color of the dirt. R2 usually was a muddy brown, so using browns
rather than black makes the aging look more natural. I wouldn't recommend
doing it in the house, no matter what technique you choose.... Don
Painting: Preparation.
First, if you have a sandable primer, remove
the masking paper while it's still wet. However, if you are masking
on an edge, the primer will "fall" away from it and it's not
as necessary, although still a good idea as sanding can damage the edges
of the masking paper. Use fine line tape for all edges, available at
an auto body supply store, as this will give you very good lines without
imperfections. Be very careful when pulling masking paper when the primer/paint
is still wet because you don't want to touch the surface you just painted.
If you wait too long to pull the tape off, it can leave jagged edges
along the finished lines. Do this as well with your paint job but only
pull the tape off after the whole thing is painted will base and clear.
You do not need to sand between each coat of primer. If you are using
a non-sanding primer, you do not need to remove any tape until the whole
thing is painted and done. Enamels
are good paints; a lot of boat trailers use that kind of paint. However,
if it were me, I would use a catalyzed polyurethane paint. Very durable.
Enamels, if not catalyzed, will come off with some solvents. Good Luck. Brett L
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Electric screwdriver
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There is some variation in the type of foot motors people are
using. A few people want to find the exact type of "pancake motor"
used in the real R2s. These are very expensive - around $300 each!!!
Some are using wheelchair motors. They're quiet and efficient
(will run long time off of a battery charge), but still expensive -
$150-250 each.
Others are taking the "low-end" approach and using
power window motors - about $15 each. While these little motors work
well for brief operations like 2-to-3-to-2-leg transitions, they are
only designed for intermittent use, and could burn out if run for longer
periods (driving R2's locomotion, for example). Their
internal braking effect when power is removed means that they will start
and stop on a dime.
The "middle ground" is the windshield wiper motor.
They are tough, are designed for continuous duty, and are price-friendly
-- around $30 or so each. Most members are going this route. You can
find motors of this type at: www.meci.com <http://www.meci.com>.
Click on the "motors" category and then the "gearhead"
subcategory on the left side of the web page, and you'll find a listing
for a "12 VDC Worm Gear Motor", which is designed to fit a
2000-2001 Saturn "L"-seried car. It's part # 420-0578, and
costs just $24.95 each.
Beware:
Wiper motors as they are, are very inefficient and chew up limited battery
amps very quickly. But they are readily available and cheap.
The main
alternative to wiper motors -- to improve battery-usage efficiency --
are wheelchair motors. They are $150-200 or more each, and I understand
are typically quite a bit larger than most wiper motors -- therefore
it would be pretty difficult to even think of fitting these into the
feet/battery boxes, as you can wiper motors.
BTW, if
anyone has found a specific make/model of wheelchair motor (or motor
with similar speed/torque/power efficiency characteristics) that's small
enough to fit in the foot/battery box area, I'm sure a lot of us would
like to know.
Most motors
setups involve chains or belt drive rather then directly driving the
wheels with the motor. This is primarily due to the lack of space in
the foot. Some people are putting the motors in the battery box and
running the wheel directly, however others a using the battery boxes
for their batteries and as such need a chain or belt drive in order
to fit everything in the foot.
There
is/will be a tutorial from one of the members showing how to fit a windshield
wiper motor coming soon.
I can't say whether
there definitely is or isn't some wheelchair motor out there that'll
fit in the battery box, but of the 4-5 gearhead wheelchair motor models
currently sold for robotics applications by National Power Chair, only
one comes close to fitting the foot/battery box, and even it appears
to be just a little bit too large.
Has
anyone looked at optically encoding the drive motors to allow the circuitry
to make the motors go the same speed and the robot to drive straight?
I might go this way eventually; the system to lock the speeds is called
PID (proportional, integral, Derivative) and is an error correcting
method for keeping multiple motors running at the same speed. It's used
a lot in robotics. If you look up PID you'll find plenty of links explaining
how it
works.
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Motors: Torque Ratings
75 I/P comes out to 8.7nm or 88 kg/cm.
You need to multiply that figure by your gearing, and then divide
by your wheel radius to get the final figure. The figure quoted
is stall torque, which means how much torque it provides when the shaft
is locked. Torque is not a great way to rate DC motors as they usually
provide the same torque over their entire RPM range, unlike an internal
combustion engine that usually has only a narrow torque band. Also in
DC motors, you only need torque to get you started since rolling resistance
is very low once you are moving. A better
rating would be watts, and then I can tell you how it'll perform. For
example: If R2 weighed 50kg (110lbs) had a rolling coefficient of .05 (this is a guess based on the footprint
and wheel widths). On a flat grade, to get 6KPH (3.7MPH) youd
need to pump in about 4.2 amps, at 12v that means 50.87 watts. Bear
in mind this is driving with one wheel, you would consume half that
figure per motor in a normal setup, but it's always good to factor another
100% in since occasionally one wheel may lose traction, or you might
be executing a turn. Increasing the grade drastically increases the
power required. A 3% grade (2.7deg) raises the required wattage to 80.
Dave E
How fast does the
R2 unit need to go to participate in the R2 parades at the Celebrations?
In some cases, as fast as you can pull it on a trolley
Dave Everett said in another post that we needed some thing that could
run at 300rpm. The wiper motors can go as high as 106rpm.
Motors: NPC did supply a set of motors to us for the Episode 1 R2 we
built at ILM, though those motors are still in a box uninstalled. The
motors that we did use were the same make as the ones Nation Power Chair
sold us, but we bought them from a local supplier and bought the NPC's
pair as a back up. I'm not sure they know that, and I certainly hope
they don't use us in their advertising....
Though I can't speak for the other motors, the make we are using
are very good, though big--the inside of the "ankle" and lower
part of the leg had to be modified to accept that motor. Don
Pancake Motors:
For those interested in using the pancake motors,
the correct part number as used by ILM is: GPM12, they cost about $300
US each. The website for PML is <http://www.pmlflightlink.com>. Dave E
Return
Batteries: Misc.
When connecting the batteries in series
---|(- +)--(- +)|---
will sum the voltages. Note: "(-
+)" represents the battery, and "-" and "|"
represent wired connections. Connecting them in parallel (with all the "-" sides
connected to each other, and all the "+" sides connected to
each other) will sum the currents. That is, two 6V 10A batteries connected
in parallel will give you 6V 20A. |(- +)| ---| |--- |(- +)| Similarly, mixing these two ideas can give you various combinations. If you take
two 6V 10A batteries, and connect them in series, then take two more
and do the same, then connect the unconnected negative sides together
and the unconnected positive sides together, you would have a 12V 20A
source. |(- +)--(-
+)| ---| |--- |(- +)--(-
+)| A few technical
notes from the Power-Sonic Sealed Lead-Acid Battery Handbook about series
charging: "Charging in Series: Lead-acid batteries ... may be charged
in series safely and efficiently. However, as the number of batteries
in series increases, to does the possibility for slight differences
in capacity. ... Depending
on the characteristics of the individual batteries, some may overcharge
while others remain in a slightly undercharged condition.... To minimize the
effects of individual battery differences, use batteries of the same
age and history, and, if possible, charge in strings of no greater than
24 to 48 volts." Regarding
"sealed" enclosures: I believe (but I am not certain) that
"sealed" refers to being airtight. Another Power-Sonic
note: Caution: Never charge or discharge a battery in a hermetically
sealed enclosure. Batteries generate a mixture of gases internally.
Given the right set of circumstances, such as extreme overcharging or
shorting the battery, these gases might vent into the enclosure and
create the potential for an explosion when ignited by a spark." Mike V
Batteries: Type
I was planning on going the motorcycle route
myself, but I've opted for a gel cell like we use in our aerobatic planes.
There 12 volt and only 3 1/8" X 7 5/8" X 5"high and 6Lbs
each. Two should be plenty of juice. Tom K
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Dome: Fiber Optics
The real R2s use a multi-strand plastic fiber
(Polymethyl Methacrylate) clad in a plastic (Fluorinated Polymer) jacket.
There are 64 strands, each with a diameter of 0.010", and the jacket's
outside diameter is 0.130". You
can get this cable from Poly-Optical Productions (www.poly-optical.com)--ask
for POC1501.64 I'm waiting for word on pricing, but it appears as though
the smallest quantity available is 1640 feet! Don
Dome: Fiber Optics
I believe fiber optics have been around for
quite some time, though its use in applications such as telecommunication
may not have been widely popular until the 1980s.
Though another approach might yield a similar result, the fiber
optic approach was used on all the R2s since its inception. Don
Dome: Fiber Optics.
The fibres should be about 3mm each. 0.130
inches equals 3.3mm
Dome: Light Boxes
8 x 5 for each front box and 28 x 5 for the
rear unit.
Dave E
Where/how can I find/construct the
electronics (lights
of dome) <http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/>
Dave E in Sydney will shortly have
the lighting system all finished and I suggest you wait for that one
(unless your electronically inclined),
Dome: Processor State Indicators 2 Thanks Dave -
that saves me from typing too much...
However, to expand on it a bit: Dave is correct about all the
R2s and their approaches to the blinkies. The lens at the front is simply
milky acrylic (milkplex in the US), and the light unit is mounted in
a "can" behind it. For Ep2, we streamlined it ever so slightly;
we CNC'd a light box, and wrapped the appropriate colored gels around
the lights. Since the timing of the lights in all the other films varied,
we decided to go with a 50-50 mix, although it could be electronically
varied...something we never did (or have yet to do...!) The effect we
were trying to achieve is for the red to blend to blue and back again,
and that's what we got. A side note: In some of Ep1 and Ep2, the green/yellow
light on the back is usually disabled. The director of photography didn't
like the look of the light spilling on to the set.
Don
Dome: Processor State Indicators 1 In the original
R2s, there was a mechanical shutter, with a red and blue gel that wiped
across the light to change color. In some shots this has been turned
off, mainly because it was noisy, and you can see the light is part
red and blue. By ESB, the setup is different, with 2 lights,
one with a red gel the other blue, and a circuit to switch them back
and forth. If you think the light is fading this is mostly an illusion
(although some globes tend to glow for a short period when power is
removed).
Dave E
Glad the PSI plastic worked for
you!! Its the right stuff to use too!!! That tidbit came right
from our beloved astromech master himself!!
Richard
Someone posted about a UFO light
that was modified; well I found one that runs on dc power. It's a little
mushroom type light. Here is the link.
<http://www.spencergifts.com/shop/product.asp?pid=00662874>
they are on clearance for $9.00. The bulbs can also be replaced. I picked
one up today and the only problem is you dont get that twinkle. The
3 lights just turn off and on randomly.
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There are several options are available for sound. Wav Files burnt to a portable CD player are
the easiest and the CD player is just let run, or stopped and started
using a remote control, you may need an amplified speaker to get loud
enough sounds. Although this doesn't have any
control (purely random) It is simple and cheap (if you already have
the CD player)
James Houston jameshouston@currantbun.com has a CD compilation of R2 sounds. Email him for details or you can cut your own CD using the cleaned sounds from the main
site.
Some have taken the approach of
installing laptops or PCs inside the R2 frame with soundcards and interface
circuitry. Mark Hamester has a PC in his and his R2 works via radio,
voice command and ultrasonics.
Also Sound encoded onto Sound Chips and played back by interfacing
chip with a product like Switch 8/16 from MCD <http://www.modelcontrol.com/> or Hitchhiker KeyKoder 19/23/39 channel R/C from Vantec <http://www.vantec.com/>. The ISD5008 is a simple, single-chip voice record and playback solution
with up to 8 minutes duration of high audio quality available from ISD <http://www.isd.com>.
There are some pre-made boards
already completed, or in the works, that are even sound activated
See Jim Shimas website www.hyperdynalabs.com
even has optional motion activated!
Mike Velchuck also has another similar though more complex soundcards
in development.
Other builders have cannibalized
talking toys such as Commtechs and the R2-D2 3D puzzle and utilized
the chips out of those.
Basic Stamp Circuit
Click on this link <faq_bs_sound.htm>
to view the "Basic Stamp Code" to produce sounds for R2-D2
www.allelectonics.com has voice-activated switches for a modest
sum which could be slaved to a CD player or other devices for voice
activated conversations
Sound Resources
Thanks to Builder Jeddah
for cleaning and processing these samples
·
Chatter <R2%20sound%20files%20%28Cleaned%29/cleaned%20chatter.zip>
·
Film Reverb <R2%20sound%20files%20%28Cleaned%29/cleaned%20film%20reverb.zip>
·
Process <R2%20sound%20files%20%28Cleaned%29/cleaned%20process.zip>
·
Raz <R2%20sound%20files%20%28Cleaned%29/cleaned%20raz.zip>
·
Short <R2%20sound%20files%20%28Cleaned%29/cleaned%20short.zip>
·
Trouble <R2%20sound%20files%20%28Cleaned%29/cleaned%20trouble.zip>
·
Whistles <R2%20sound%20files%20%28Cleaned%29/cleaned%20whistles.zip>
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RC: Here's how the film R2s work: Each R/C robot has a drive motor
in each of the side legs, for a total of 2. Each motor is plugged into
its own heavy duty speed control, which in turn is plugged into a channel
on the R/C Receiver mounted on R2, using 2 channels on the r/c system
(we typically assign them to channel 1 and 2). The speed controls can
range in price from $60 US to $500 US--it depends on your budget. The
difference in the units is how large a load they can handle, a factor
determined by your choice of motors. An overworked speed control will
blow frequently--which happened a lot to the UK crew on Episode I, as
they were using hobby speed controls for model race cars. We have now
standardized the speed controls in all the robots except for 2. Except
for those, we use a Vantec model that costs about $100 US each. If I
had my paperwork here I'd tell you the model number. The other 2 speed
controls are also Vantec, but were around $500 US, though only one is
needed in each robot, since that model controls 2 motors. I'm sure if
you called Vantec and told them what you want to do, they could guide
you through it. We've found them very helpful. As to
the controlling of the motors, we use the high-end Futaba 9ZAP, a helicopter/airplane
controller (yes, I know...but we haven't brought down an R/C plane or
helicopter...yet...) which costs about $1500 US. We also use a Futaba
6 channel skysport (6XAHS, or something like that), which costs about
$250 US. Both of these models have the capability to mix two channels
together onto one joystick, allowing us to drive R2 by using the right
joystick. R2 drives by tank method, so when the joystick is pushed forward,
both motors engage and it moves forward. Reverse is the same. When turning,
a slow turn is made by pushing the joystick to a corner position (45,
135, 225, 315 degrees). That engages one motor only, and a quick turn
is accomplished by pushing the stick full right or left, causing one
motor to go forward while the other goes in reverse. The function that
mixes is the "flaperon" mix settings, and it took some time
to play with it to trim it out, but it works great. The difference
in R/C systems is important--make sure you use an FM system, as well
as a PCM (I'll let those in the electronics field explain those differences...)
we tried PPM settings (both Futaba systems we use are capable of both),
and R2 had a lot of glitching. Whenever possible, I like using the 9ZAPs,
as they are very smooth working and have a lot of functions. As a side note,
we power the receiver with its own 6-volt gel cell, and that runs any
small servos, like the holo-eye, as well. The Transmitter is powered
by a Makita 9.6 volt battery in an external holder, allowing long operating
times and fast changeovers.
Don
Computerizing
Has anyone looked
at a pc motherboard inside the R2 frame with
soundcard and interface circuitry?
Several. Mark Hamester has a PC in his and his R2 works via radio, voice
command and ultrasonics.
I was asked about this system the
other night as some of my classmates have decided to build a battlebot
for their Senior Project. I'd never heard of this before, so I must
ask the Republic :)
The system is called an "Isaac16" and is made by a company
in Greenville, Texas called IFIrobotics. Has anyone used these in an
industrial application or elsewhere?
As I understand it, the basic version of the "16" goes for
about $50USD, with the full blown control system all the way at $800USD
and known as the "Isaac32"
If nothing else, the club may be interested in these controllers or
the speed control units, etc.
URL is <http://www.ifirobotics.com>
Telephone number is given as 903-454-1978
these folks are strongly recommended by the Battlebot people, but I'm
not familiar with them so I thought I'd ask.
Return
Also check www.mcmaster.com
<http://www.mcmaster.com> for a
Try onlinemetals.com for some great
prices,
www.onlinemetals.com <http://www.onlinemetals.com>
Great prices, great selection! This may not convince you to build a
metal-skinned R2 (I'm not doing that, either), but you'll likely need
aluminum and steel for other parts, so you might consider bookmarking
the
link for future use.
Why can I find a supplier in the UK/USA/Australia etc etc for
such and such (resin/paint/Aluminum/styrene etc etc etc) i.e.: supplier
list
·
Spreadsheet to calculate
motor requirements <construction/R2%20drive%20calculator.xls>
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Where do I find info on R2 related props?
Droid restraining
bolts
Bartender R2
equipment
Docking frames
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Return
There are tons of great sites out
there with R2 related material but if your looking for essential R2
Builders material then we suggest visiting the sites below.
The R2-D2 Builders Club website
www.robotbuilders.net/r2 <http://www.robotbuilders.net/r2>
this website was created by group founder Dave Everett and acts as the
home website for the group. Containing many pictures of members droids,
personal stories and general information, it is a great place to get
started.
Ramjet EP. IV
WWW.Budo-KA.com.Au/ramjet <http://WWW.Budo-KA.com.Au/ramjet>
If you are looking for an accurate set of blueprints then it is essential
that you visit Ramjet!!
Ramjet also has a large image gallery of R2 and other R series astromech
droids.
Dave Lockwood's R2 Astromech
www.cadvision.com/lockwood <http://www.cadvision.com/lockwood>
Dave has great parts and tons of information, pics, and links to help
you get started!!
RXC'S R2 Site
<http://www.bionicfrog.com/r2d2/>
Ross Cole and his informative website is a link not to be missed as
well, containing tons upon tons of images for reference, parts, interviews
of builders and how they constructed r2, a glossary of terms, a must
read FAQ <http://www.bionicfrog.com/r2d2/faq/> section
for newbies, more blueprints, fun r2 related files, and a valuable resource
of links.
Return
You must make a Yahoo ID to get
access. Go to <http://groups.yahoo.com/>
and look for a Join hyperlink, make sure you associate the ID with the
email address you use for this group.
- Go to the Files area
of your group.
- Browse through the
folders until you find the location where you would like to add
the file. Click Add File.
- Type the path name
or use the Browse button to find the file on your computer.
You must know the location of the file on your computer in order
to upload it.
- Type in a description
for the file.
- If you are the moderator,
you can select among the auto-delivery options.
- Click the Upload
File button.
To use chat you need
the following
- A
personal computer running Microsoft Windows 95, 98, NT, or 2000
(no Macintoshes?)
- Microsoft Internet
Explorer (version 4.0 or later) or Netscape Navigator (version 4.08
or later)
The
regular chat session is at 8:00am-9:00am EST Australia. Time every second
Sunday. You will need to use a time converter site to work out your
local time. Remember to take into account Daylight Savings either In
Australia or local to where you are.
Also
note the Chat room can be used anytime, and not just during the regular
meeting.
The way to unsubscribe from any
group is to send an e-mail to:
GROUPNAME-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
So, in this case, r2builders-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Return
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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Magic Of The Myth Tour
The R2 that is part of the MOM exhibit is an
aluminum body and head, which would date it as an original R2 from "Star
Wars: A New Hope". I can't remember if there are "Kenny feet"
on that one or not--it would be obvious by the big hole on the inside
of the battery pack, with little booties inside. Not all the two-legged
configured R2s are Kenny ones; there have been 2 leg R/C ones as well,
such as the R2 serving drinks on Jabba's Barge and R2 adjusting to launch
the lightsaber to Luke in "Jedi".
As to what other films that particular robot has been in, I can
only say for certain that he was in the first one, and probably "Empire"
and "Jedi". I can state for sure that it wasn't in Episode
I or II, as it has been part of one exhibit or another since 1988. During
the original film productions, the bodies did get mixed and matched
with heads and arms. I believe I pulled that body and head (and possibly
arms as well) from various units, finding a complete set in good condition
for it's first public exhibition in 1988. I'm pretty sure it was not
used as a Kenny unit as it never had the little seat he used while inside.
It was never used as an appearance R2 as someone said I reported; I
believe he confused my statement from when I was discussing the Smithsonian
Magazine photo I posted in the files section. The same BODY as in the
exhibit is in that photo, but the HEAD in the photo is from the R2 used
for personal appearances. Another photo of the personal appearance R2
is in the Archive book. If you ever saw an R2 in public from about 1984
until 1997, THAT was also the R2 at MOM....
Don
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When dremeling the curves, do the first pass with your dremel
set on a slow or one notch (higher) still slow. Hold tight to the dremel,
but let the blade kind of walk it self on the dome this will make your
first groove. After that speed up almost 1/2 way then go back over the
groove still holding tightly. Then if you want to make the groove a
little deeper speed up to full speed, hold tight, put blade in the groove
and again let the blade walk through the groove.
Return
Return
Return
LEDS : Resistor Values The formula for LEDs is:
R = (E - Vf) x 1000/I where: R is in ohms E is voltage supply Vf is
the forward voltage drop of the LED and I is the LED current in ma For
a typical white LED of 3.6 Vf and I of 50ma, you would need a 56R resistor.
56 = (6 - 3.6) x 1000/50 Dave E
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Have you ever wondered how they make those domes for R2? Well
its a process called spinning. Click on the images below to see a sample
lightshade being spun. <view.asp?lookup=spun00>
<view.asp?lookup=spun00> <view.asp?lookup=spun01>
<view.asp?lookup=spun01> <view.asp?lookup=spun02>
<view.asp?lookup=spun02> <view.asp?lookup=spun03>
<view.asp?lookup=spun03>
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Hey gang,
I just thought I'd share with you what I did for R2 sounds (for now).
I made a CD with random sounds with different amounts of dead space
in between. The goal for me was to just play the CD to get an hour or
so's worth of audio. I used a portable CD player inside with a pair
of small unamplified PC speakers. I mounted one in the lower front vent
and the other (not really needed) I put behind the forward octagon.
For the CD I used the cleaned sounds from the main site. I also created
a few "dead space" files with Windows Sound Recorder. One
10sec of dead space, one 5secs, one 2secs and 1sec. I then opened a
new file in Sound Recorder and then "Edit", "Insert file"
I inserted a random sound clip, repeated alternating one of the dead
space files and an R2 sound until I had about 6 min or so (ran out of
memory). I then did a second file with different sounds. I even captured
Leia's
hologram message from ANH.
In Adaptec Easy CD creator I made a CD with the 2 files I created inserting
those alternately and then throwing in the Hologram track a few times
until the CD was full.
Voila R2 has a voice!
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The issue with getting paint to effectively stick to polyethylene
isn't just isolated to flexibility. The molecular structure of polyethylene
gives it an almost "wax-like" feel to the surface, making
for a "slippery" surface. Because of this, paint can't "grab"
or bond onto the material the same way it can polystyrene other traditionally
paintable Materials. It's a bit like trying to paint Teflon or nylon,
although it has a bit less "slip" than those materials. To be sure, you can get paint to dry onto the
surface, but it is very bad at surviving the "scuff test"
- paint generally scrapes right off. Supposedly, this Bondite prep coat
helps (though again, Bondite doesn't appear to be widely distributed),
or the material might be run through some sort of exotic chemical treatment
bath. I'm looking for a readily available method to improve the paint-bonding
characteristics for polyethylene.
Richard M
Painting: Polyethylene
Polythene and Polypropylene are both classed as 'oleofin' polymers
and are characterized by their good flexibility and chemical resistant
properties. Neither are as good as PVC for structural strength but polyprop
has excellent fatigue resistance allowing boxes with hinges to be moulded
as one - the hinges will NOT break.
Both of these polymers are resistant to all 'off the shelf' adhesives
and probably paints as well. Glue spreaders, which are supplied with
some adhesives, are made from polythene and the glue simply peels off
when set. I would avoid using such plastics at all costs as they are
both susceptible to bending and shrinking due to temperature changes.
Mouth wash caps made of polythene would on the other hand be IDEAL for
making silicone moulds for resin castings. Simon C
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Fibreglass
Gelcoat is resin but is much stronger and has pigments to give
it color. It's main purpose, however, is cosmetics and to provide a
barrier of protection for the laminate. FRP stands for Fiberglass Reinforced
Polymers (plastics). The gelcoat and the resin are the polymers that
are reinforced with glass. The styrene that you mentioned is put into
the resin to help keep it in liquid form. If exposed to a peroxide catalyst,
the styrene burns out of the resin (exothermic reaction) and causes
the resin to harden. In the process of making resin, it is in a solid
state until the styrene is applied. If gelcoat or resin is exposed to
air long enough without being kept mixed it will harden as well. The
styrene separates from the resin and causes hardening. The best way to apply gelcoat is by gun. DO
NOT thicken it, as you will have pinholes and an ugly surface to finish.
If you are putting the gelcoat into the mold first, do not put a wax
in it. If you are laying up your laminate then applying the gelcoat,
use a surfacing agent wax. This will seal the gelcoat's surface from
air and will allow a sandable surface, which would otherwise be tacky
and will gum up your sandpaper. Apply all gelcoat at once and not in
layers and let it cure to a tacky surface, then apply your laminate,
this is for use in a mold. An FRP mold gets the best results, as silicon
is best for casting resins. Do not start lay-up too soon as laminating
resin bleeding through the gelcoat will occur. When painting gelcoat,
sand the surface to 400 grit and use polyurethane single stage paint.
It's the industry standard and recommendation. I use nothing else when
painting gelcoat. Brett L
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